Saturday, June 20, 2009

Nepal

I spent about three weeks in Nepal after India. I arrived in Katmandu on May 4th, shortly after my arrival I found a hotel. The Poon Hill Inn is near the center of Thamel, it is tucked away from the street and has two beautiful gardens. The people were full of life and all passing through Katmandu to go on one adventure, or another. I immediately met someone one to help me set up a trek, and impulsively did it. I was in Katmandu for three hours and already had plans to head into the mountains the very next day. The man who set up the the trek was friends with the owner of the hotel, who I would come to know very, and he was there by chance while I was checking in and I was talking about wanting to go trekking during my time Nepal. We set up the trek and I met the man who was to be my guide. I was to embark on a seven day journey through the Lang Tang mountain range the very next morning. That night there was a party at the hotel and I was totally welcomed by people from all over the world, mostly Japanese and Nepalese. I had a beautiful connection and very interesting conversations with man. Kamal, happens to lead what is probably the most interesting life of anyone I know. After flying, drinking local whiskey, and planning an intense adventure, I was exhausted, I went to sleep around 11:30, but awoke at 3:30 am, and couldn't fall back to sleep. I was excited, nervous and in such an interesting situation. I went down to the hotel lobby, to see if I could possibly find internet access....I knew my mother would be terribly worried if I had left on a seven day trek and didn't tell her and had no contact. In the lobby I found Kamal still up, he couldn't sleep either, he let me use the hotel computer and made me a cup of wonderful Nepalese tea. We talked and played cards for a couple hours and I went back sleep around 6:00. I was suppose to leave for the trek at 8:00 am, I woke frantically at 7:49, I was trying to get my things together and I didn't even know what I was bringing. Then there was a knock on my door, Kamal said that my trek would be delayed and I would leave around 9:15 or 9: 30. So I still very quickly, but without stress got myself ready.
I went down stairs and Kamal was waiting for me. He said something along the lines of, "I've been wanting to get out of the city lately and I use to be a full time guide, so if its okay with you I'll be taking you on this trek not the other guide". I was so excited. I had developed a total crush on him that the night and during our quiet early morning. So after breakfast we set off, both of us were sleep deprived and I was lacking any adjustment to the new climate and elevation. The first day was ruff. We drove to the edge of the road and there were stairs, literally miles of stairs, going through villages and leading to the entrance of the National Park. The majority of the first day was all stairs, it was still beautiful, but harsh. Then once you enter the National park the beauty is breathtaking. We arrived at our first destination at dusk, while trekking we stayed at tea houses along the way. This village was pretty civilized and so beautiful, from here there was the best view, I could see the peak of Everest in the morning time. Kamal seemed to know many people along the way, he knew the people who ran this guest house and we had local treatment. In the evening it poured rain and we had a beautiful night. Kamal and I learned about one another, and this why I can say that he leads such an interesting life. He is fluent in five languages, he is the owner of poon hill inn, which I didn't realize and he has business in Austria and Japan, he also has the ability to drop everything else and be a guide for week.
The next day's terrain was the most difficult, but it felt much easier to me than our first day, it was so beautiful and trekking is an amazing way to experience Nepal. I trekked through all these little villages. Sometimes on the most intense terrain I saw school children walking to and from school, something so magical and difficult for me is part their every day routine. Those mountain people are so strong.
One night we stayed in craziest place, a beautiful farm on top of a mountain, with a shitty room, run by a mad woman and her family. They were all drinking, even the young children, Me and Kamal stayed in a nasty room and they served wild boar for dinner. Kamal tells me that I would think they were even more crazy if I could have understood them. It was a full moon that night and we sat outside and watched the stars, Kamal, myself and all the farm animals.
The next day we did two days of trekking in one day, but Kamal wanted to take me to a village where his great friend runs the Lama hotel. She was an older woman and spoke very little english, but I could feel her warmth. Kamal's mother died when he was a child and he met this woman when he was 17, he said she is one the the closest things to a mother that he has.
We stayed in Nagarkot on our last night and what can I say except, it was beautiful, unexplainable, like my entire journey. On our last day we hiked to a temple on the top of a mountain, it was so peaceful. We spent a long time in silence there, I just took in my experience and it was the perfect way to end the trek.
While I was in Katmandu I went to most of the temples. The Monkey Temple, which is at the highest point of Katmandu, I could the whole city from there, and even though its become a tourist destination the monks and spiritual people who worship there preserve the true feelings of the place. Then, in the Pashupati holly area I actually had a very spiritual experience. I arrived and it started to pour rain so I found cover in a small temple among many in the area. There were a few other travelers, some local people and a Baba. While I was in India any local man with a camera asked to take a photo of me, so by the time I got to Nepal I was more than fed up. So I'm sitting in this temple an there are two creepy men secretly, but not so slyly taking photo's of me. I was trying to cover my face and becoming upset, but somehow I found peace in the Baba's face, him and I spoke little in Hindi, but I don't know enough to have a conversation and its also his second language, so our communication was almost telepathic. When the rain stopped I left to explore the area. Before long the Baba came to find me with someone to translate a conversation between us. I told where I was from and said he wanted to go to America, I said come stay with me. Then he told me that he came to find me because he saw a beauty in my my eyes, but wanted to know if I was ok, because they were overwhelmed with sadness. I was taken back, to have a holly man say something so profound to me. I think he was referring to the anger I must have had in my eyes because of those men, and I told him about it. He then told me that he saw me as having a gift and strength, true connection to the universe, I would not be affected by vanity and selfishness of men like that. I went on alone, but thought about him. He had God in his eyes and I kept thinking about him and what he said as I went through these beautiful temples. Then on my way out I saw him again, no translator, but I told him that I saw god in his eyes and he understood. He grabbed his bag and was coming with me, in that moment he was entirely ready to drop that life and be on a new journey with me. At first I didn't know what he was doing and I walked alone, but he was following me, we found someone again to translate for us and he told me I'm going with you. I wanted him to, really, but I knew it was totally illogical, even if I spent time with him in Nepal he couldn't really come back with me. I will always remember him though and those profound words. He was called Pinot, I will always remember those eyes.
Kamal and I became very close, so for the rest of my time in Nepal he worked very little and spent his time with me. One day he took me fishing just outside of Katmandu, and every night we had dinner. Usually we would make dinner together, he taught me how to cook Nepalese food. I went to most of the Temples with him. I loved staying there and spending my time with him. When I wasn't out exploring I was in the kitchen or sometimes even looking after the reception desk. Kamal also gave me my new, weird, but very rad hair cut. I miss Kamal and have stayed in contact with him thus far. We had something special, which couldn't last, but I will always have him as friend and can always go back to Nepal. I hadn't even left and he was planning my next trip, so I will definitely be spending more of this life in Nepal. After spending so much time in India working and feeling so heavy, so maternal, and feeling this overwhelming sense of my purpose in life, Nepal made me feel very free and young. It was a wonderful experience, I actually extended my time time there instead of spending more time in India.

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